B. 巣鴨から飛鳥山へ 江戸の花と滝巡り名所ルート / From Sugamo to Asukayama - Scenic landmarks of Edo with beautiful flowers and waterfalls Route |
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江戸随一の園芸センターである染井に隣接した巣鴨も、染井と並び園芸の町でした。“菊見”で知られ、江戸市中のみならず、日本各地から多くの菊見客が集まったといわれています。 江戸時代に整備された五街道のひとつ、中山道沿いに展開する巣鴨の様子、また、飛鳥山へつづく田園風景、滝のある景色をお楽しみください。 |
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Sugamo, located next to Somei, the number one gardening center of Edo, is known for its chrysanthemums. It is said that many people, not just from Edo, but from all regions of Japan, gather to view the chrysanthemums. Please enjoy the view of Sugamo which spreads along the Nakasendou, one of the Five Routes established in the Edo Period, as well as the rural landscape leading to Asukayama and view of the waterfall. |
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巣鴨真性寺 | ||
巣鴨庚申塚 | ||
飛鳥山全図 | ||
不動滝 | ||
装束畠衣裳榎 | ||
周辺の切絵図を見る | ||
①巣鴨真性寺 / Sugamo Shinshou Temple | |
『江戸名所図会. 第3』245ページ |
真ん中に本堂と江戸六地蔵のうちの一基が見える。背後は、のどかな田園風景が続く。 江戸時代において巣鴨の地蔵といえば、江戸六地蔵として知られた真性寺の地蔵のこと。江戸六地蔵は、生活圏の境界の守り神として、江戸に通じる六街道の入り口に建立された。六街道とは一番・品川品川寺(東海道)、二番・四谷太宗寺(甲州街道)、三番・巣鴨真性寺(中山道)、四番・山谷東禅寺(奥州街道)、五番・深川霊巌寺(水戸街道)、六番・深川永代寺(千葉街道)である。 真性寺の門の前の道には「すかも通り」とあるが、これは中山道のことである。日頃、この通りは幹道のため、諸国への往来が多かった。 中山道沿いに開けた巣鴨町には植木屋が点在し、江戸時代後期の菊作りブームの先駆的な役割を果たした。たくさんの菊を寄せ集めて、竜宮城や富士山、動物の形に仕上げていく「形造り」に、多くの見物客が連日群がっていたと言われている。
At the center, you can see the main temple building and one of the Edo Roku Jizou (six Jizou statues of Edo), behind which extends a peaceful rural landscape.
When we talk about Jizou in Sugamo from the Edo Period we talk about the Jizou of Shinshou Temple, which was known as one of the Six Edo Jizou. The Six Edo Jizou were erected at the entrances to the Six Routes that leads to Edo, as guardian deities to protect the boundaries of the living habitat. The Six Edo Jizou is comprised of (1) Shinagawa Honsen Temple (Toukaidou), (2) Yotsuya Taisou Temple (Koushu Kaidou), (3) Sugamo Shinshou Temple (Nakasendou), (4) San'ya Touzen Temple (Oushu Kaidou), (5) Fukugawa Reigan Temple (Mizutou Kaidou), and (6) Fukugawa Eitai Temple (Chiba Kaidou). The road in front of the gate of Shinshou Temple is called "Sugamo Street", but it was originally Nakasendou. This road was traveled heavily daily as it was a major passage to the different countries. In Sugamo town, which lay along Nakasendou, garden shops dotted the area. These shops played a leading role in the chrysanthemum boom of the late Edo Period. They collected a large amount of chrysanthemums, and were said to be packed daily by many visitors wanting to see "chrysanthemum art" taking the shapes of Ryuuguu Castle, Mt. Fuji, and animals. |
②巣鴨庚申塚 / Koushinzuka, Sugamo | |
『江戸名所図会. 第3』246ページ |
夏の暑い昼下がり、中山道の立場(休憩所)の光景である。2軒の茶屋では、西瓜や団子等を商う。 多くの人が、藁の帽子を被っており、汗を拭いている人もいる。休憩も一段落し、犬と戯れる姿もある。中には暑さのためか、喧嘩をしている様子も。子どもは元気に虫取りに行く最中のようだ。 奥には風光明媚な田園風景が広がっているが、その先を北上すると飛鳥山にたどり着く。江戸からの花見客は早春は桜草、夏は卯の花を楽しみながら飛鳥山に向かった。 この周辺の百姓は、副業として桜草を江戸の町々に販売していたといわれるが、声高く桜草を商う姿が見られると間もなく、上野、日暮里、飛鳥山等の桜がいっせいに咲き出すのである。
On a hot summer afternoon, this is a sight from the standpoint (rest stop) of the Nakasendou. At the two tea shops, you can get watermelon, dumplings, and more.
Many people here are wearing straw hats or wiping off their perspiration. You can also see some people playing with their dogs after taking a break. You can see some people fighting as well, maybe because of the heat. Here are some children excitedly on their way to catch bugs. In the rear, the beautiful rural landscape spreads out northward toward Asukayama. From Edo, people who came to see the flowers could enjoy primrose in the early spring and deutzia in the summer while looking at Asukayama. As a side job, the farmers of the area are said to have sold primrose to Edo towns. However, here you do not see people vigorously buying and selling primrose. You see the cherry blossoms of Ueno, Nippori, Asukayama, and more blossoming together. |
③飛鳥山全図 / Asukayama as a whole | |
『江戸名所図会. 第3』156ページ |
飛鳥山は、かつて江戸有数の花の名所であった。8代将軍吉宗により、享保5(1720)年から桜1270本、ツツジ100本などが植えられたことによるが、染井の植木屋がその際の植樹に一役買ったと伝えられる。 周辺は茶屋・料理屋が軒を連ね、花見の季節には、「尋常の観にあらず」との言葉通り、江戸を代表する遊興地として、非常に多くの人々が訪れ賑わいを見せていた。 挿絵には、筑波山の方角が描かれているが、飛鳥山十二景倭歌には、飛鳥山より眺めて、近くは西ヶ原、染井、遠くは秩父など遠近あちこちの景観の美しさが漢詩、和歌、絵画で表現されている。 『江戸名所図会』本文中には、この周辺について、「数万歩に越えたる芝生の丘山にして、春花・秋草・夏涼・冬雪眺めあるの勝地なり。始め元亨年中(1321~24)豊島左衛門、飛鳥の祠を移す(祭神、事代主命なり)。よって飛鳥山の号あり。寛永年中(1624~44)王子権現御造営のとき、この山上にある飛鳥の祠を遷して、権現の社頭に鎮座なしけり。その後元文(1736~41)の頃、台命(徳川吉宗の命令)によつて桜樹数千樹を植えさせらる。うちには遊観の便とし、外には芻尭(草刈りと樵夫)のためにす。年を越えて花木林となる。しかりより騒人・墨客は句を摘み章を尋ぬ。牧童・樵夫は秣を刈り薪をとる。ことにきさらぎ・やよいの頃は桜花爛漫として尋常の観にあらず。熊野の古式に、春は花をもって祀るといへるに相合するものか。(後略)」と書かれている。
Asukayama was once known in Edo for its flowers. The eighth shogun Yoshimune is said to have planted 1,270 cherry blossoms, 100 azalea, and more starting in Kyouho period 5 (1720). The gardeners of Somei are said to have taken part in the planting of the trees at the time.
The area was home to tea shops and restaurants, and when the flower watching season came, it became Edo's main amusement spot, crowded with many people and giving meaning to the phrase "a spectacular sight". In this illustration, the direction of Mt. Tsukuba has been drawn, and in the Asukayama Juuni Keiwaka, the beauty of the near and far landscapes viewed from Asukayama, including Nishigahara, Somei, and Chichibu, are expressed through Chinese poetry, Japanese poetry, and pictures. In the text of "Edo Meisho Zue", the following is written: "This is a wide land with grassy hills. Each season has lovely scenery: flowers in spring, herbs in fall, coolness in summer, and snow in winter. In the first Genkou period (1321 - 1324), Toshima Saemon moved the shrine of Asuka here (upon the god's command). Therefore, this mountain became known as Asukayama. When Ouji Shrine was built in the Kan'ei period (1624 - 1644), the smaller shrine of Asuka was moved from the mountaintop and placed on the Ouji Shrine grounds. Later on in the Genbun period (1736 - 1741), thousands of cherry trees were planted here at the command of Tokugawa Yoshimune. The interior was to be used for pleasure, and the exterior for weeding and woodcutting. Several years passed and the flowers bloomed. Those skilled in the refined ways of poetry and the arts wrote poems about Asukayama. Farmers grazed their livestock here, while woodcutters cut hay and gathered firewood. The cherry blossoms in spring were especially beautiful, truly a spectacular sight. As it has long been said in the Kumano region, it is most suitable in spring to carry flowers when you go to worship at a shrine.". |
『飛鳥山十二景詩歌』「染井夜雨」 |
④不動滝 / Fudoutaki waterfall | |
『江戸名所図会. 第3』186ページ |
この周辺は、水がとても豊かで王子七滝と呼ばれるほどに滝が多かったという。ここを流れる石神井川は、渓谷をえぐり、いくつもの滝を作って音を響かせながら流れるので、周辺の地名を滝野川と言ったが、川そのものは音無川と呼んだ。 挿絵は王子七滝の一つ、不動滝である。うっそうと茂る樹木に囲まれた渓谷の窪み、落ちる滝の様が表現されている。 挿絵を見ると、ようやく目的地にたどり着いてこれが不動滝かと少し離れた場所から眺める者、お茶をすすめられのどを潤す者、勢いよく落ちていく滝を見て感嘆する者がいる。旅の途中、爽涼のひとときを味わっている。
This area was once rich in water and had so many waterfalls that they were called the Ouji Nana Taki.
The Shakujiigawa River that flowed here bored through the valley,creating a number of waterfalls and echoing its sound as it went. This is why the area came to be called Takinogawa (Waterfall River),even though the actual name of the river was Otonashigawa River. This is an illustration of Fudoutaki, one of the Ouji Nana Taki waterfalls. It shows the chasm of the valley densely surrounded by trees and the waterfall. Looking at the illustration, you can see a person gazing from afar at the Fudoutaki as if they have finally reached their destination, another person quenching their thirst with tea, and others watching in wonder at the power of the waterfall. The illustration exudes the refreshing moment one takes in the middle of a journey. |
⑤装束畠衣裳榎 / Shouzokubatake Ishouenoki | |
『江戸名所図会. 第3』178ページ |
一面に田畑が広がり、王子稲荷が遠くに見える。 王子周辺の山々には杉の大木が茂り、たくさんの狐が住んでいたという。 この土地の大晦日の伝承として、衣装榎という中央の大木めがけて方々から狐(稲荷神)が集まって灯を灯し、装束を整えて参詣するというものがある。 そのため、その大木は「装束榎」とも呼ばれるが、村人はなんとも妖しげな狐火を遠くから眺め、翌年の豊凶を占ったのである。
A field stretches across the canvas where you can see the Ouji Inari Shrine in the distance.
On the mountains around Ouji are tall cedar trees, where many foxes are once said to have lived. A New Year's Eve legend of this area says that kitsune (fox gods) from far away would make their way to gather around the large tree in the center, the Ishouenoki, where they would light a fire, put on costumes, and pay homage. This is why the large tree is also called the "Shouzokuenoki". The villagers would look at the mysterious fire of the kitsune from afar and use it to predict their harvest for the coming year. |